You've finally decided that you want to build your own model railway and the train table that it will need to sit on. Often the first choice for a layout will be a table top or a sheet of plywood. Although this may seem the easiest way, it definitely has its restrictions.
The biggest concern is that everything has to be on top and nothing can be below ground level. This is when most modelers see the benefits of building a table tailor made just for any scenery or landscape they might choose.
First, you need to plan carefully the size, relative weight of different sections, and design of your new layout. If one section is more scenery intensive, it will require more attention to support. An L-girder support system has become the standard way to support your model layout, and can be adapted to almost any configuration, providing you with all the strength your layout will need.
L-girder bench work is very strong, and still about as inexpensive as you can get. It's a very functional structure, and is easily put together. It is a platform consisting of girders, cross braces and joists, all working together to do the job. Most of the time the joists are about 18 inches apart, but they do not need to be equally spaced.
Try and use care when selecting the lumber for both the support as well as the actual tabletop. Obviously you'll want flat pieces that will carry your roadbed without problem. Take care in the support pieces as well. Cheaper grades of lumber will warp over time, and I don't have to tell you what that could mean to your layout.
If your layout is larger that 4 x 8 you should still keep the pieces to that size to make them easier to transport in case you want to move your layout. Use wood screws from underneath to assemble the bench work cross members as well as the support risers.
This way, you don't have to ruin scenery when looking for some random screw lost in the trees! Make doubly careful not to split the wood in your supports by either using too large of screws or by poor placement of same.
Choose any spots carefully that you want to cut for scenery or access. Opinions vary as to whether you should saw holes in the table top before or after the track is placed.
Personally, I think it's better to do so before the track is added so that the vibration from sawing doesn't loosen the track or ballast and ruin the smooth run of your operation. This is just my opinion though.
Tabletop layouts tend to be from 48 to 55 inches high. This is adjustable and if you've bolted it together instead of using nails or screws, you can change it with just a wrench. It's best if you can see the tops of highest hills and grades without needing a step stool.
Take the time needed in planning your special train table. It will be well worth it.
The biggest concern is that everything has to be on top and nothing can be below ground level. This is when most modelers see the benefits of building a table tailor made just for any scenery or landscape they might choose.
First, you need to plan carefully the size, relative weight of different sections, and design of your new layout. If one section is more scenery intensive, it will require more attention to support. An L-girder support system has become the standard way to support your model layout, and can be adapted to almost any configuration, providing you with all the strength your layout will need.
L-girder bench work is very strong, and still about as inexpensive as you can get. It's a very functional structure, and is easily put together. It is a platform consisting of girders, cross braces and joists, all working together to do the job. Most of the time the joists are about 18 inches apart, but they do not need to be equally spaced.
Try and use care when selecting the lumber for both the support as well as the actual tabletop. Obviously you'll want flat pieces that will carry your roadbed without problem. Take care in the support pieces as well. Cheaper grades of lumber will warp over time, and I don't have to tell you what that could mean to your layout.
If your layout is larger that 4 x 8 you should still keep the pieces to that size to make them easier to transport in case you want to move your layout. Use wood screws from underneath to assemble the bench work cross members as well as the support risers.
This way, you don't have to ruin scenery when looking for some random screw lost in the trees! Make doubly careful not to split the wood in your supports by either using too large of screws or by poor placement of same.
Choose any spots carefully that you want to cut for scenery or access. Opinions vary as to whether you should saw holes in the table top before or after the track is placed.
Personally, I think it's better to do so before the track is added so that the vibration from sawing doesn't loosen the track or ballast and ruin the smooth run of your operation. This is just my opinion though.
Tabletop layouts tend to be from 48 to 55 inches high. This is adjustable and if you've bolted it together instead of using nails or screws, you can change it with just a wrench. It's best if you can see the tops of highest hills and grades without needing a step stool.
Take the time needed in planning your special train table. It will be well worth it.
About the Author:
Looking for information about model railroading such as why dcc vs analogue control is best? Find out more about getting your model railroad layout running the way you want on The Model Railroader website at http://www.themodelrailroader.com
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